How to Choose a Cashmere Sweater

Cashmere prices range from under $50 to over $500, and the label rarely tells you why. We knit cashmere in our own factory in Qinghe County, Hebei, so here is what actually decides quality, and what to check before you buy.

1. Fiber fineness (microns)

Fineness is the most objective measure of cashmere quality. It's the average diameter of each fiber, measured in microns. The finer the fiber, the softer the sweater feels and the less it itches. U.S. law only requires fiber labeled "cashmere" to average 19 microns or finer. Top-grade cashmere sits around 14 to 16 microns. Our yarn averages 15.5 microns.

2. Fiber length

Longer fibers make stronger yarn with fewer loose ends, so the sweater pills less and keeps its shape longer. Cheap cashmere often uses short fibers, which feel soft in the store but pill quickly. Fiber length doesn't appear on labels, so ask the brand or look at how the sweater wears after a few weeks.

3. Gauge (how fine the knit is)

Gauge is the number of needles per inch on the knitting machine. Higher gauge means a finer, smoother knit. Lower gauge means a chunkier, more textured knit. Neither is better; they suit different uses.

Gauge Look Best for In our collection
7GG Chunky, textured Cozy outer layers, cable knits Cocoon Cardigan, Half-Zip Sweater
12GG Smooth, classic Everyday cardigans and sweaters Crewneck Cardigan, Open-Front Shawl Wrap
16GG Fine rib, close-fitting Turtlenecks, layering under jackets Ribbed Turtleneck
18GG Very fine, tee-like Lightweight pieces for mild weather Men's Short-Sleeve Crewneck

4. Weight (how warm it is)

Weight tells you more about warmth than thickness does. In our collection, a size M piece around 200 g is lightweight, around 220 to 250 g is midweight, and 330 g or more is heavyweight. Choose lightweight for travel and layering, midweight for everyday wear, and heavyweight for cold winter days.

5. 100% cashmere or a blend

Blends mix cashmere with wool, nylon or other fibers to lower the price. They can be durable, but they are less soft and less warm for their weight. U.S. labels must list the fiber percentages, so always check. Everything we make is 100% cashmere.

6. Does origin matter?

Most of the world's cashmere comes from goats in China and Mongolia. The region matters less than the grade of fiber a maker buys and how carefully it is spun and knit. Our fiber is sourced in Ningxia, China.

7. How to check a sweater yourself

  1. Feel it against your neck or inner wrist. Good cashmere feels soft with no prickle.
  2. Stretch it gently. It should spring back to shape. If it stays stretched, the knit is loose or the yarn is weak.
  3. Hold it up to the light. The knit should look even, with no thin patches.
  4. Read the label. Look for the fiber percentage and where it was made.

8. Why some cashmere costs more

Price comes from four things: the grade of fiber, the quality of the yarn, how densely it's knit, and how many companies take a cut before it reaches you. A department-store sweater passes through a yarn supplier, a factory, a brand and a retailer. We knit and sell our own, so you pay for the cashmere, not the markups.

9. A note on pilling

Even high-quality cashmere can pill a little at first, where it rubs. It's loose short fibers working out, not a defect. Remove pills with a cashmere comb, and pilling usually slows after a few washes.

Quick checklist

  • 100% cashmere on the label
  • Fiber around 14–16 microns
  • Springs back when stretched
  • Gauge and weight that match how you'll wear it
  • A clear return policy

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